Japan is known for its culture: the temples of Kiyomizudera and Fushimi Inari, the religions of Shinto and Buddhism, the intricate calligraphy, the ever-fascinating history. Japan is also known for its adherence to the collective. There are rules, plenty of them, like not talking on the phone while using public transportation. Said regulations might not be posted but they’re known, and they are followed, to a t. As such, when participating in an onsen, one of the most “revealing” cultural traditions in a country that is otherwise reserved, it is crucial to know the rules and what to expect.
Popularized back in the 500s, bathing in a hot spring, or onsen has become a daily tradition. Men and women head to their local establishment, strip down and cleanse themselves of burdens, of sins, of any impurity they no longer wish to carry. In any season, at any time, Japanese onsen. There are entire towns, like Kinosaki, famous for the practice. As a visitor, there’s no better way to immerse yourself, quite literally, in the history of the country. But, in order to ensure you enjoy your experience, and avoid offending fellow bathers, take note of the following:
Tattoos are a No-No
Historically, only member of the Yakuza (the Japanese mob) sported tattoos so onsens banned the artform. Because of this, if you’re rocking an entire sleeve, although some have become more lenient, there’s a chance you won’t have access. With smaller ink, cover it with a Band-Aid and you’ll be good to go.
Bathe Before
The onsen itself is not a bath. In order to enter the hot spring, you must bathe beforehand using one of the small stations provided. Grab a stool, take a seat and wash your entire body- with soap. Once cleaned, you are ready to soak in the naturally heated water and continue the purifying process.
Gender Specificity
Some onsens are single gender. They provide not only a male and female entrance but also separate bathing areas. Some are mixed. Be sure to do your research ahead of time so you know what to expect. The experience you choose depends wholeheartedly on your own comfort level. The Japanese at either won’t care in the least.
Get Naked
I’m not a naked person but for this experience I quite literally decided to grin and “bare” it. You’ll likely be one of the only foreigners in the onsen, especially if you pick a truly local establishment. This might make you feel self-conscious and want to put on a suit. But trust me, you’ll likely garner more attention for sporting apparel than not. It’s nearly impossible to purify oneself while wearing a layer. Plus, it makes it difficult, if not impossible to enter the onsen fully cleaned, which could give your fellow bathers pause. This is the time and place to check your modesty at the door. So, strip down and embrace the tradition.
Onsen Towns
If you want to really immerse yourself in the experience, consider visiting one of the many towns devoted to the practice. Hakone, only an hour train ride from Tokyo, offers a respite from the big city bustle. Each ryokan, or traditional inn, boasts its own onsen, open to guests and visitors alike. Yumoto is the most historic bath in the town and smaller sites dot the countryside. Kinosaki has seven public hot springs in walking distance and throughout the day you’ll see individuals wandering from site to site wearing the traditional yukata (cotton robe). If you’re looking for an onsen with a view, consider one of the open-air baths in Yufuin. Because the tradition still proves so popular, no matter where on the island you find yourself, there’s likely an onsen town somewhere nearby.
Bathing Season
A tradition practiced daily, there’s truly no onsen off-season. Although do consider the outside temperature as you head for a bath. I visited in July and while it might have felt a tad more rejuvenating to sit in a hot spring when it wasn’t 90+ degrees outside, I still took full advantage of them. A winter onsen could offer a bit more ambience, especially if you visit an outdoor establishment. Think crisp air and a snow-covered landscape. Plus, you never know when or if a snow monkey might jump down for a soak.
While the Japanese take their rule following quite seriously, if you know what’s required the onsen experience is truly relaxing and rejuvenating. Regardless of how long you’re in town, make it a point to visit at least one public bath. Not only will you leave feeling as though a weight has been lifted from your shoulders, you’ll get the chance to actively participate in one of Japan’s most important cultural traditions.
*Japan isn’t the only country that embraces public bathing. Check out my guides to the Scandinavian Sauna and Turkish Baths as well!
