Despite being 100% nude-averse, and perhaps the person least likely to drop trow in any setting, one crisp afternoon in July, I found myself walking down a wooden dock toward one of Malmö’s most famous bath houses, Ribersborgs Kallbadhus. Accompanied by my Swedish friend Linda, I entered the ladies section of the establishment and prepared to partake in my first ever Scandinavian sauna. Was I nervous? Yes. Was I slightly regretting the decision I’d made minutes earlier to give it a try? Most definitely. But, I did it anyway and cannot recommend it enough. Not only is the practice rejuvenating and relaxing, it holds such an important place in the history of the region, participating gives you a chance to fully immerse in the culture and do so as though you’re a Scandinavian yourself.
A regular practice for locals, it might feel a tad intimidating for a visitor to participate. There are rules. There is tradition. There are certainly aspects one would want to know prior to partaking to ensure you “do it right” or get the most out of the experience. While I felt unbelievably anxious leading up to my sauna, I know that having a seasoned veteran by my side, filling me in on the history, the etiquette and the rationale, made the experience far more manageable and, in the end, incredibly enjoyable.
I recognize that you might find yourself in Scandinavia solo or with a group of fellow tourists, without your own Linda to walk you through. But please don’t let this deter you. In fact, allow me to be that guide, to metaphorically hold your hand and provide you with all the information you might need in order to savor the sauna stress-free.
Bathe First. Sauna Second
Prior to entering the sauna, you must bathe. So grab a towel and head to the showers first (which might also be a communal experience). It’s common courtesy considering you will be sitting on a bench bare-bummed.
Single Gender
Some saunas, especially the smaller ones, are likely to be mixed gender. But if you venture to the public/community bathing centers, expect the men and women to have separate facilities. I recommend double checking before choosing an establishment, particularly if you’re already reluctant to participate.
Nudity
Scandinavians are quite comfortable with nudity so prepare yourself to see a plethora of naked people. If it is mixed-gender, many will cover their most private of areas but otherwise, expect full exposure. You can wear a swimsuit into the sauna, especially if you plan to jump into the water afterwards. But some locals may take note and a few might consider it unhygienic. So I, the world’s most anti-naked person, encourage you to just grin and “bare it.”
Conversation
Try to keep it to a minimum and, if you need to chat, do so at a whisper. The sauna is designed to relax and nothing makes that harder than loud talking. Try to pair your extended conversational needs with a cool-down session outside, leaving the sauna a place of quiet respite.
The Isvak
Sitting in a hot room is only the first half of your traditional experience. After accumulating as much sweat as you can tolerate, you should head outside and jump into some seriously cold water. In the winter, this requires flinging yourself into a small hole in the ice. Come summer, you’ll still catch your breath as you land in the still frigid water. It’s believed that this combination of hot and cold heals your body and improves your health. Of course you can head back into the sauna for a much needed warm-up post swim. Feel free to repeat this process as many times as you’d like.
The Tradition
While it is hard to trace the sauna to its origin, many believe the practice started in Finland during the BC time frame which means its a seriously old tradition! Early on, saunas were pits dug into the hillside and provided heat through burning large amounts of wood for hours on end. The accumulated smoke was released just upon entering, giving these structures the name of “smoke saunas.” At times temperatures reached above 200 degrees Fahrenheit. While we can thank the Fins for the practice, I think we can all be grateful the heat threshold has lowered significantly, to around 115 degrees.
With these tidbits of information in mind, if and when you find yourself in the region, be sure to set aside some time for a sauna. There’s truly nothing more quintessentially Scandinavian or more enjoyable, even for those who shy away from nudity. After spending multiple weeks traveling, my time in Ribersborg remains one of my most cherished memories.
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