Over the past few years, Cartagena, Colombia has become a favorite destination for those living in the United States. It is an easy plane ride or two from all major cities. There is little to no time difference, which means minimal jet lag. The trip can be done relatively affordably. And, due to its proximity, can fit anyone’s vacation availability. What’s not to love?
The truth is however, even if Cartagena didn’t check all of these boxes, it would be well worth a visit. Its history, its architecture, its food, and its people make it a fascinating destination. You’re guaranteed to not only love, but learn a lot, each day you spend under its hot, Caribbean sun. From eating and drinking to lounging and exploring, there’s something for everyone!
Walking the Ramparts
Sitting near the mouth of the Magdalena River, a waterway leading to the interior of Colombia, Cartagena became one of the most important cities for bringing commodities in and out of the country. As such, and home to much wealth, it became a target for pirates and other invaders. To fortify the city, the Spanish built walls to surround it, walls that visitors can now walk along.
Known as the Ramparts, there are multiple access points throughout the old city and its elevation provides beautiful aerial views of Cartagena. Not offering much shade, the walk can be quite hot, so consider strolling in the morning or late afternoon, even at sunset. Vendors selling water, ice cream, and hats are frequent, offering you the basic necessities while on the wall. Take in the views, pose with ancient cannons or dismount at La Bovedas, a once prison now souvenir shop, to squeeze in some shopping. The Ramparts are free, allowing you to climb up and walk down as frequently as you’d like.
Enjoy a Rooftop Bar
In Cartagena, there’s an entire world that exists on the top floor. Most accommodations offer rooftop bars, so there are plenty to choose from. Movich Hotel provides a great view of the churches in the old town, with the modern skyline of Boca Grande in the background. Cafe del Mar sits right on the wall itself. With direct and unimpeded views of the ocean it’s a prime location for watching the sunset. Alquímico, a swanky bar that prides itself on offering sensory experiences, has a more tiki-feel rooftop, boasting colorful lanterns, intricate graffiti and lots of fruity rum drinks. Many of these rooftops have pools lined with cushions, so wear shoes you can easily remove or, if you’re daring, a swimsuit.
Check out the Chocolate
Widely famous for its coffee, Colombia was actually growing cacao well before the creation of its renowned Arabica bean farms. With such a rich history of chocolate, Cartagena boasts two museums dedicated to cacao. At both you can take chocolate making classes, lasting 45 minutes or two hours. Learn how to make candies right from the bean itself and walk away with an assortment of 15 flavored chocolates made by you! If you don’t have time for a course, swing by either site and sample all kinds of products, from cocoa covered macadamia nuts to chocolate iced tea. You’re bound to walk out with at least one purchase (chocolate pasta anyone?!). You can also wander through the museum for free, following historic and production timelines that take you through the entire process.
Find a Food Tour
Many operators, such as La Mesa, Cartagena Connections, The Real Cartagena Tour, offer multi-hour tours during which you eat your way through Cartagena. From fruits to sweets, from small side shops to street corners, you’ll try all kinds of local snacks and get to know not only the product but also the vendors selling them.
If you’re on a budget or don’t want to try all the food in one day, I recommend you find the four vendors I had the good fortune of meeting. Julio and his father sell delicious arepas on the corner of Calle de La Moneda and Calle de La Bomba. For the last 20 years, they’ve whipped up white and sweet corn treats, both stuffed with queso costeño. Lazarus, a vibrant Cartagena native, sits in a circular stall on Carrera 9 (#3351) selling a shrimp cocktail he’s perfected over the past fifty years. Named El Sombrerón Ostrería, the roof of his shop matches the hat he himself wears.
Head through the Clock Tower and you’ll find Maria who owns a handful of the sweet stands that line Portal de Los Dulces. Fill a sample container with guava and pineapple flavored candies or opt for one large bola de coco y panela. It’s a must-visit for anyone with a sweet tooth. The hardest to find would be Daileen, whose shop is mobile. Likely near Plaza Bolivar, her cart sits, filled to the brim, with coconuts fresh from the tree. Expertly opening the top, she hands you the fruit and a straw so that you can enjoy the sweet water within. Daileen will also slice the coconut in half, once empty, to scoop out the creamy white meat for your eating pleasure.
Regardless of taking a self-designed or pre-planned tour, eat a light breakfast. You’ll want to save as much space as possible for all there is to try in Cartagena.
Hunt for Graffiti in Getsemani
The neighborhood of Getsemani sits outside the Ramparts and as a result, its streets feel a bit more authentic, lined with small hostels, homes, and locals going about their daily lives. Still considered part of the old city, the buildings maintain their bright colors (UNESCO World Heritage regulations prevent any external changes from being made) and many walls are decorated with detailed graffiti. Calle de San Juan, running perpendicular to Calle 25, perfectly embodies both. Incredibly narrow (you have to turn sideways when a car passes to avoid the side view mirror), the street is lined with murals, whose vibrancy are matched only by the music often wafting from nearby homes.
Follow San Juan to its end at Calle 29. Turn left and you’ll encounter even more street art, depicting local children (all victims of violence), Gabriel Garcia Marquez (world renowned Colombia author), and a local Palenquera (the women selling fruit in colorful dresses). Turn right and you’ll find Plaza de la Santisima Trinidad, filled with outdoor restaurants that offer a perfect place to grab a bite or cold drink. Some side streets sport hundreds of colorful flags strung across the road. One in particular substitutes umbrellas and is magical. Regardless of where you wander, you’re likely to find something beautiful and certainly instagram worthy.
Explore the Plazas and Streets of the Old City
Walking under the Clock Tower, you arrive at Plaza de los Coches. Here, as the name entails, you can find horse drawn carriages ready and waiting to take you on a guided tour of the old city, day or night. Whether you opt for a ride or not, you’ll certainly hear the clip clop of hooves on the cobblestone as you meander around. Along one side of this square sits the Portal de los Dulces a.k.a Sweets Row. Numerous stalls line the covered walkway, each selling an assortment local candies. A small sample container won’t cost you more than $10.
Plaza de la Aduana sits just to the left of Clock Tower entrance. Now home to City Hall, this wide open space was once the slave market. If you’re looking for museums, walking through this square brings you to the Modern Art Museum and Convent of San Pedro Claver, which houses a few exhibits. This portion of the old town sits right along the water and therefore is home to the Caribbean Naval Museum. It’s also a great entrance point to the Ramparts.
Heading into the heart of the old town you’ll find Plaza de Bolivar, the most important square in the city. Named for the liberator of Colombia, the plaza is home to the first bank of Cartagena, the Inquisition Palace (now a museum detailing the atrocities committed by the Spanish Inquisition), the Gold Museum (there is also one in Bogota), and the Catedral de Santa Catalina de Alejandría. In the center of the park sits a statue of Simon himself, surrounded by lush trees, offering visitors some much desired shade. It’s also the perfect place to do some shopping, with locals selling paintings, woven bags, and other handicrafts.
No matter where you end up in the old city, you will undoubtedly find buildings painted in the brightest of colors. Take a half day to just wander the streets, taking in all the sights. No turn is a wrong turn in Cartagena.
Castillo San Felipe de Barajas
An easy 10 minute walk from the old city sits Castillo San Felipe de Barajas. Built as part of the Spaniards’ fortification of Cartagena, the fortress rests on top of a hill, designed to protect the city from the east. For 25,000 pesos (roughly $8), you have access to the entire fort from 8am until 6pm. You can join a free tour (inquire when you buy your ticket when the next one starts), pick up an audio guide, or wander on your own, reading the periodic signage explaining its history. While there are people selling souvenirs, you likely won’t find water, so pack a bottle or two. Unless you’re in one of the tunnels, chances are you’re standing in the sun, so avoid visiting midday. Although, there’s usually a nice breeze to keep you from entirely overheating.
The Rosario Islands
If you’re in Cartagena long enough, visiting the Rosario Islands is a must. Named a National Park in 1977, and consisting of over 20 islands, it is home to one of the most important coral reefs in Colombia. About an hour and a half boat ride, and 100 kilometers away from Cartagena, the islands offer crystal clear turquoise water, beautiful sandy beaches, and the opportunity to snorkel/dive. While the trip out to Rosario is usually smooth sailing, the wind often picks up in the afternoon, making for a choppy return ride. It’s nothing if not entertaining.
You can certainly join a tour, during which you stop at multiple islands, including the aquarium on Isla Rosario; but spending the day (or night) at one of the many hotels is far more relaxing and gives you a chance to actually experience island life. A few of the more popular hotels to visit for the day include Lizamar, Cocoliso and Isla del Sol. Coralina, Pedro Majagua and Gente del Mar are a bit more exclusive. All of them will help you coordinate transportation.
