The Galapagos Islands are a photographer’s dream. Setting foot on land, you find yourself immediately amidst some of the most evolutionarily interesting animals on the planet. Swim beneath the surface and encounter endless marine life. I spent seven days island-hopping with Lindblad and National Geographic, loving absolutely every moment. My hope is that this photo journal inspires you to explore this magical spot!

Day 1: San Cristobal and Cerro Brujo

My first excursion left me absolutely speechless. We had our first taste of sea lions and truly realized how fully we could immerse ourselves in the various animal habitats. With no land predators, they seemed completely unfazed by our presence. I spent hours wandering the white sand beach that stretched along the cove, particularly focused on the sea lions. 

Birds, ranging from gold finches to oystercatchers meandered along the shore, looking for food. And we caught the most spectacular sunset, with El Leon Dormido in the foreground. 

Day 2: Snorkeling and Exploring Española Island

Our second day offered us the first opportunity to submerge ourselves below the surface of the Galapagos. If seeing sea lions on shore was wonderful, swimming amongst them proved absolutely spectacular. They willingly and readily approached us, their friendly nature leading the sea lions to blow bubbles in our faces and actively swim around us. The underwater world of the Galapagos is certainly as rich as that on land.

We also found another sea lion pup, this one rolled playfully in the sand in an attempt to ward off the ever-present flies.

We spent the afternoon exploring Española Island. The iguanas were everywhere, tens upon tens lounging in the sunshine or swimming in the water. With mating season approaching, the usually dark colored males turned red and turquoise, hoping to attract the attentions of nearby females. If you look carefully, you can also see the reptiles sneezing, their mechanism for ridding the salt water from their bodies.

Iguanas and crabs can be found both on land and swimming through the sea. It’s the only place on earth you’ll find these reptiles in the water.

The featured event of Española was unquestionably the island’s albatross colony. Their nests littered the ground. I’d seen these giant birds in flight but never on land. Watching their movements proved mesmerizing, especially when it came time to take off, their feet awkwardly lumbering across the ground. We also witnessed numerous courting rituals, done just before mating or as a goodbye prior to flying off for months. I could hear their beaks clicking as they appeared to spar.

You’ll find albatross of all ages, some actively molting, some well beyond, and others about to start. Punta Suarez, on Española, is also home to a massive colony of Nazca Boobies, who nest along the water.

IMG_5499

Day 3: The Island of Floreana

We started the day on Punta Cormorant. As was now customary, sea lions greeted us on shore. Walking inland, we caught a glimpse of flamingos grazing in the lagoon’s brackish water. Their pink feathers popped amidst the otherwise brown landscape. The main attraction of our stroll was definitely the green marine turtles. Not only did we see their nests and the occasional egg shell (evidence of a new turtle making its way into the sea), but we witnessed two fully grown turtles move across the beach. We stood and watched one female work her way into the water, as others enjoyed swimming in the crashing waves. 

DSCN0380

Following our close encounter, we took a zodiac ride around Champion Island, home to the rare Floreana mockingbird. While we didn’t have the good fortune of encountering any, we did spot some sea lion pups playing in the water. We also had our second snorkel of the trip. The presence of a stronger current made the swimming a bit more challenging but the sheer number of fish was astounding!

We spent the afternoon at Post Office Bay, where a barrel has served as a post-office for hundreds of years. Visitors leave their postcards/mail for future guests to transport. Our guide read through the addresses within the container and each time we heard a location close to where we lived, we’d offer to deliver it.

Day 4: Santa Cruz Island

Today covered a lot of ground and various activities. We first visited the Charles Darwin Research Center, where we saw numerous animals, including the giant tortoises. The center strives to rebuild their population, meaning you’re likely to find hundreds of babies a well as adults. Eggs are brought in from all around the Galapagos, to ensure invasive predators (cats and dogs) don’t eat them. Once old enough, the scientists return the tortoises to their natural habitat.

From there, we set off to bike through the highlands. At a higher elevation, we had great views of the harbor and found ourselves in a very different landscape, far more lush than any previous island. Our ride brought us to a sugarcane farm. Here, we learned how they make hooch (120 proof alcohol).

Last but not least, we made a stop at a giant tortoise nesting ground, where we could see these creatures in the wild. We stumbled upon one partially submerged in a small pond, another couple trying to make a baby, and, my favorite, one more having a late afternoon snack.

Day 5: Christmas on South Plaza and Santa Fe Islands

Our day started with a walk on South Plaza. Iguanas covered the ground, some with yellow scales, others shaded grey. There were so many, we had to watch every step we took to ensure we didn’t accidentally crush one. A male actually farted as I stepped over it, a noise loud enough for others to hear and that caused the reptile’s whole body to move.

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also happened upon a brand new sea lion mother, trying to take care of her pup. Our guides guessed it couldn’t have been more than a day old.

Following a brief Christmas celebration back on board, we set off for a deep water snorkel. We found a reef tip shark, a few sea turtles, the friendliest sea lion yet, and a variety of stingrays. One of the best underwater experiences thus far.

Day 6: Sombrero Chico, Sullivan Bay and Santiago Island

Today was a day of amazing wildlife encounters. Commencing with a zodiac ride around Sombrero Chico and ending with a snorkel in the surrounding channel, the morning brought us into contact with a handful of new creatures. We found a lava heron hunting for a mid-morning snack. While unsuccessful, watching it work was beautiful. It also provided our first close encounter with the blue-footed boobies. Their feet seemed all the more vibrant when juxtaposed with the black lava.

While we’d seen penguins on land, during our earlier zodiac ride around Sombrero Chico, and laid eyes on many an iguana, we had yet to see either from the water. It was incredible. These penguins can survive on the equator due to the cold water carried in the Humboldt Current.

Our afternoon was spent exploring Santiago. We wandered across a relatively young lava flow covering the island. Only about 100 years old, it’s hard to believe that’s considered young. It felt like we stood on the surface of the moon, with black rock extending as far as the eye could see, accented periodically with red iron or white calcium carbonate. The lava river proved spectacular. En route back to the boat, our zodiac driver Mario took us out to Pinnacle Rock, where penguins littered the water’s edge.

Day 7: Genovesa Island and Darwin Bay

We’d arrived at our final day on board the National Geographic Islander. Our first excursion took us to the sandy beach of Genovesa Island and I’ve never seen so many birds in one place. There were roughly half a million, mostly red-footed boobies and magnificent frigates. We wandered through their nesting areas, worked our way up a shallow river, and enjoyed some of our final views of the islands.

 

 The blue beaks of the red-footed boobies caught my attention more-so than their feet. Although I found it quite cool they could wrap their feet almost entirely around the branch on which they sat.

Our final activity took us back under the water, with a final sea lion swim and then onto Prince Phillip’s Step. We kayaked to shore, spotting an occasional turtle poking its head above the surface. We climbed the steps from the sea to the top of the cliff, where we walked along the point. Nazca and red-footed boobies paraded every which way, a few even getting into somewhat of a tiff over territory. In our zodiac ride back to our ship, we laid eyes on our first (and only) fur seal. It was so completely different from the sleek sea lions we’d seen throughout the week.

The week flew by faster than I wanted. But, I couldn’t imagine a better way to spend my winter holiday. The Galapagos is a magnificent place, one that everyone should experience at some point in their lives. It increases your appreciation of Darwin’s research, of evolution and of all things environmental. I hope these photos provide a bit of insight into the destination and perhaps inspire you to book a trip to this magical place!

DSCN1040