Just a short tuk-tuk ride away, 12th century temples sit waiting to be explored. Moving between them you can’t help but notice the differences between each, despite their common purpose. Some have entrances obscured by the roots and branches of overgrown trees. Others boast towers that soar into the sky, ornately covered with ancient stories and Hindu deities. Buddha faces, monkey heads and elephants rest majestically on ledges and terraces, simultaneously welcoming and intimidating visitors. Wandering the passageways, filled with tourists and monks alike, is like being transported in time and place, to a world far beyond anything imaginable in present day.
It is true, and rightfully so, that people flock to Siem Reap, Cambodia to immerse themselves in this Angkor Wat experience. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the largest religious monument in the world, the complex is a once-in-a-lifetime destination, a place not to be missed. But many, in an attempt to tour the entire region, pop in for a few days, explore Angkor, take photographs at sunrise or sunset and then continue on their way. While this tactic proves efficient, the complex certainly is not the sole reason for venturing to the town. And believing that it is leads travelers to miss out on the entire Siem Reap experience. From eating local food at the Old Market (bugs anyone?!) to grabbing a drink on Pub Street, there exists much more beyond the walls of Angkor.
In fact, my most memorable moment took place following an obligatory day of temple touring. Despite the afternoon heat and total exhaustion, I found myself wandering the streets of Siem Reap. Passing shops and food stalls, tourists and locals, my friend Courtney and I stumbled upon Dr. Fish Foot Massage. She’d heard of a practice known as a “fish pedicure” and suggested we try it. I had zero clue what awaited, unfortunately knowing little about the town other than Angkor. Surmising it involved fish and my feet made me both excited and nervous; but trying something new, and participating in the unexpected activity, particularly in a place that’s world famous for something completely different, proved too tempting to pass up.
We entered Dr. Fish, with its clean looking tanks and comfortable benches, ready to dive in. As we settled into our seats and ordered beverages, we couldn’t help but notice not only the number of fish swimming about but also their size. When I heard “pedicure,” I pictured dainty creatures. But these looked huge: at least the length of my pointer finger and in no way slender.
Staring down, I kept my feet hovering just above the water’s surface. Without even submerging them, the fish sensed my presence and gathered in the tank below. I’d say at least fifty swam hungrily underfoot, eagerly awaiting the taste of my dead skin cells. Eyes squeezed shut, I gingerly placed a toe into the water and immediately felt their mouths latch onto it. As quickly as I’d lowered in, I pulled it back out- the sensation too foreign to sustain for longer than a second or two. Shaking off the tickles I felt spreading throughout my foot, I took a deep breath and tried again, this time placing my entire foot into the tank and into their grasp.
Peals of laughter escaped my mouth as I fought every instinct to whip my foot (and potentially a fish or two) out. Within seconds I could barely see my skin amidst the gaggle of fish and their nibbling created a vibration that radiated up my leg. While it took a few attempts, eventually my body and my brain grew accustomed to the tingling, allowing me to keep both feet completely below the surface for minutes on end. Periodically, I’d remove one or the other just to watch the fish disperse and then swarm once again. I could quite literally feel each tiny bite, like a foot scrub on steroids.
As I sat at the tank, each bite began to feel less like an intrusion and more like a greeting: a welcome to the town and a reminder to stay present in the moment and in a place. Removing my feet at the conclusion of my pedicure, I couldn’t believe how clean they appeared. The callouses, the blisters, the general foot grime had vanished, leaving behind smooth skin and to some extent, a newer version of me, one eager to explore Siem Reap, Cambodia and the rest of Southeast Asia.
There’s no doubt that if I’d stuck to the beaten path and spent my time solely amidst the temples of Angkor, I would have missed out on one of my most memorable travel experiences. It didn’t take advanced research. It didn’t require reservations or planning of any kind. We simply had to make time to see more than the top attraction. Regardless of where you find yourself traveling, it is worth your time and energy to go beyond, to just wander and try something new. The result is not only the unforgettable memories but also a clearer picture of a place or culture. There’s always more to a town, to a city, or to a country than what the guidebooks recommend.
If you too wish to give your feet a fish-fueled makeover (trust me, it will be much needed after walking the 400+ acres of Angkor), here’s a bit of practical information to ensure you too have an unforgettable experience.
Where To Go: We just chose one. The town has numerous so use your gut instinct to decide which one is right for you.
When To Go: Anytime! Our pedicure took place in the afternoon. But they’re open all day. I imagine an evening encounter, with the tanks lit up, could make for an even more enjoyable experience.
What to Wear: I showed up in sandals, which worked just fine. However, my newly cleaned feet got quite dirty quite quickly as I continued to stroll the dusty streets. If you’re looking to preserve your pedicure for as long as possible, consider wearing shoes and socks.
What Else To Know: There’s really not much you need to understand prior to partaking. Fish will repeatedly bite your feet in an attempt to remove the dead skin. It will tickle. If neither of those things sound enjoyable, this might not be for you. Or, on the flip side, a fish pedicure offers the perfect excuse to push yourself.
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