Dipping the weasel hair into a jar, he carefully coated the bristles in jet black liquid. Rotating, then swiping, and repeating, the artist maneuvered the tip until satisfied. In movements clearly honed over decades, he removed the brush and set to work. With graceful yet efficient strokes, his hand, barely gripping the bamboo handle, navigated the page.
Watching him work was like witnessing the creation of ancient scrolls, as complex formations and elegant characters took shape. In just seconds a blank sheet transformed into an intricate work of art, enveloped in symbols and a distinct red stamp, representative of the Kyoto temple in which we stood: Kiyomizu Dera.
With the dominance of Shinto and Buddhism in Japan, places of worship, running from exceptionally massive temples to local shrines, exist across the country; and, exploring them proves one of the most interesting ways to spend your time. In some you can enjoy tea. In others you might sit in the garden. A few even permit overnights, bringing you fully into the world of the monks who’ve made them home.
Temples and shrines also, as luck would have it, offer locals and visitors alike the perfect memento – the “goshuincho,” or “honorable red-stamp notebook.” Added to at each place of worship, the book grows with every site you visit. In this way, it becomes both a detailed work of art and an invaluable scrapbook, capturing one’s explorations of Japan.
To find out exactly what these pages represent, the history behind the red stamps and how to procure one, check out the completed article on the Tokyo Weekender website. And, if you find yourself in, or planning a trip to, Japan, consider spending time walking the Nakasendo Trail. I can promise an unforgettable experience.
