Melbourne, Australia. The capital of Victoria. Home to world renowned restaurants, fantastic museums and a vibrant music scene. An epicenter of culture. Also a city that has turned what some might call “graffiti” on its head. Embracing this urban trend, the city of Melbourne has become famous for its extensive displays, and support, of street art. Winding through the Central Business District (CBD) you can’t help but stumble upon spray painted walls, entire alleys filled with scenes, quotes, and designs compiled by multiple artists. Schools and institutions exist to teach the trade. Festivals encourage non-artists to get involved. The government itself even commissions art, at one point painting the famous Hoiser Lane black so that artists could reinvent the space.
With such support, it’s no surprise how expansive the art has become, spilling out of the CBD’s alleyways into neighboring Fitzroy and even St. Kilda. In response to its growth in popularity, and the sheer intricacy of the work, companies have started offering guided tours, taking you out and immersing you into the art. At about $60 a pop, it isn’t too expensive. But if traveling on a budget, there’s certainly a free way to see it all, while learning just as much.
I knew I wanted to start my explorations in the CBD, the home and hub of street art. I’d heard of Hoiser and ACDC Lanes, two of the most famously decorated alleys. But I didn’t know much else and refused to miss anything important. So, I took to the internet to research. While perusing, I came upon this interactive street art website that included a map pinpointing the must-see street art in the district. I’d contemplated signing up for a tour, in order to doubly ensure I saw it all (I’m a bit Type A about crossing things off a list). But this site gave me both the flexibility to wander whenever I felt so inclined and also allowed me to save some money I could instead spend on a delicious dinner (the Melbourne food scene is out of this world). Taking some screen shots to avoid using data while out and about, I set off.
Map images in hand, I found my way down the well-known lanes. The vibrant colors pulled me in. The intricacies of the art blew my mind. The sheer number of murals astounded me. As did the number of other tourists. But, thankfully, with the help of the website, I found myself in areas a bit less trafficked. I wandered down Croft Alley, in Chinatown, a lane I’d never heard of, and a lane absolutely covered in beautiful artwork. I must have spent at least thirty minutes photographing the lane, finding something different depending on where I stood. With no guide urging me along, I popped into a coffee shop for a caffeine break. Following the map up toward the library, I encountered a small brunch spot I otherwise never would have tried (White Mojo is absolutely delicious). I even discovered the city’s free WiFi, allowing me to actually interact with the map, clicking on links and double checking information (you only get 250MB a day, so I still had to be a bit stingy). Over the course of a few hours, I found each and every recommended display, thoroughly enjoying each piece of street art but equally as much having the freedom to explore the neighborhood in which it was all located.
The following morning, I headed to Lune, a bakery in Fitzroy that serves the most spectacular croissant I’ve ever consumed. Not realizing the extent and expansiveness of the street art, I was pleasantly surprised to stumble upon more murals en route. Using the bakery’s WiFi I quickly returned to the CBD map hoping there might be one for Fitzroy as well. And sure enough, although smaller, there appeared to be at least ten spots to see. And so, tasty croissant in hand, I spent the remainder of the morning working my way toward each designated mural, enjoying the general architecture of the neighborhood as I went. Once again solo, I stopped to photograph each display, absorbing the details and how they appeared to change based on my angle. I’d then hop into a boutique to browse through the best of Melbourne’s fashion. Another mural followed this time by a thrift store, a shop reflecting the more hipster vibe of Fitzroy. Again, before I knew it, hours had passed as I contently wove my way, fully experiencing all elements of the culture for which Melbourne is famous. I felt like I’d seen it all. And all the better, without spending a dime.
While I can’t recommend Melbourne’s street art enough, don’t forget: The artwork is ever changing, almost a living museum. So you can’t be surprised if you make it to a location and there’s nothing to be seen. Good news is, you’re equally a likely to stumble upon an artwork the map didn’t indicate. It’s the best kind of scavenger hunt.
