At first, I did not want to move to New York City. In fact, I️ dreaded it. Times Square. Penn Station. Gross crowds of people as far as the eye could see. It seemed like, quite possibly, the worst place to call home. But I’d gotten a job and so off I went, two suitcases in hand and not entirely sure what awaited.
Flash forward almost 7 years and it had become a place I truly loved. I’d made some of the best friends I’ll ever have. I got to bike to work. The public transportation system was to die for. The shops. The restaurants. The entertainment. Despite the never ending piles of trash, walking 23 blocks to the grocery store, or the stale subway air that regardless of season seems to always be too hot, there were now so many aspects of New York City that I couldn’t imagine living, or more accurately didn’t want to live without.
Therefore, when I decided to quit my job last June and the thought of leaving entered my mind, I pushed it aside. I, perhaps somewhat naively and largely in denial, thought I could make it work. After traveling for a summer, I rolled up my sleeves and set to work on staying. I got a short term lease in a fun neighborhood. I signed up for a blogging class. I offered to help a friend of a friend with a start-up. I figured if I kept busy and tried all kinds of endeavors, everything would fall into place before my lease ended in December.
But suddenly it was November and I was not any closer to knowing, or even feeling like I knew, what I wanted to do. My months of working, while occupying my time, hadn’t resulted in a single paycheck and my rent was ungodly high. I also started to fear that I would legitimately die alone (the dating world in NYC is its own beast that requires its own story to tackle). That, or I’d slowly start accumulating cats to keep me company. Neither option was appealing and my finances were running low. New York would never be an easy place to leave but my time had come. The metaphorical bandaid needed to be ripped off.
So I decided, as any Type-A, gotta catch ‘em all NYC departer would, to create and execute a farewell tour. In a last ditch effort, I’d tackle all that remained on my Big Apple Bucket List. The question was how does anyone, whether getting ready to leave or planning a visit, even begin to do and see all that New York City has to offer? I asked friends what they’d always wanted to do. I looked back on lists I’d compiled over the years. I spent hours on Yelp, Trip Advisor and actually read New York City for Dummies, looking for anything and everything that needed to be added. In no time at all, I had collected quite an inventory and dove right in. I set out to experience, in an extremely heightened and condensed setting, the best of the Big Apple. In five weeks I’d partake in so many activities that I’d feel ready to leave. In five weeks, I had a feeling each restaurant and museum would actually make me desperate to stay. Regardless of emotion however, it was a 5 week stint that would give anyone, visitor and resident alike, a taste of the incredible place that is New York City.
A lot revolved around food, for obvious reasons. With over 8,000 establishments, I had barely made a dent in the restaurant scene during my seven year tenure. I knew it proved a lifelong endeavor to hit them all; but, regardless, I set out to check at least a few more off my list. Without a full-time job, the quest quickly took a toll on my wallet and my waist line. But I don’t regret a single meal. Well maybe I’d take back a few cafes here and there that were more a part of “exploring my new neighborhood (yes I moved just for 3 months. Because moving in NYC is just the easiest. Sense the sarcasm). But on the whole I wouldn’t give back a single calorie.
There were a few favorites I had to re-visit for old time sake; New York classics that define the city, places that, when someone mentions a cuisine or a type of meal, rest at the tip of the tongue. I enjoyed an early morning pancake breakfast at Clinton Street Bakery (the maple syrup is truly to die for). I sat for a late night dinner at Buvette with lady friends (only in NYC can you sit down for a meal at 10:45 pm). I indulged in an everything bagel with lox at Russ and Daughters. Almost every restaurant in this city warrants a revisit. With so much competition you can trust the bad establishments didn’t last long and have already closed. But I had to be selective. I recognized that reminiscing in the past had to be balanced with trying the new, those spots that had always been on my must-eat list.
I started with the massive variety in ethnic cuisines so readily available. A wonderful aspect of New York is that, based on the populations that originally settled, neighborhoods have become known for certain foods. I, therefore, headed out to certain parts of town, some that I’d explored previously and others that were brand new, to seek out a specific cuisine or food item for which the ‘hood was famous. That meant eating mouth-numbing Szechuan Chinese food in Flushing, enjoying communal plates filled with Ethiopian food on the Upper West Side, ordering both boiled and fried perogies at Veselka’s, an East Village Ukranian establishment, and of course dim sum in Chinatown. Just when I thought my stomach couldn’t possibly hold any more, I signed myself up for a traditional Omakase lunch. Sitting at the bar, with only nine other guests, I watched as the chefs painstakingly made each piece, at times utilizing a periodic blowtorch and others spreading various sauces and spices across the rice. A masterful process, and one that ultimately required consume 20 pieces of sushi. Thank goodness for SoulCycle. Otherwise I would have had to quite literally roll myself back to Minnesota.
Beyond tapping into the city’s endless assortment, I also focused in on some specifics. My “Best Burger” and “Top Pizza” quests remained unfinished; and as any good visitor or resident understands, you’ve gotta find the best of both in order to truly experience NYC. While I’d already tackled a few key burger joints, I knew a handful more needed to be evaluated. One night, actually during the above mentioned late-night ladies dinner, a friend casually mentioned that Bar Sardine served best burger she’d ever eaten. I’d enjoyed the offerings at Corner Bistro and Minetta Tavern but hadn’t even heard this restaurant mentioned in the same sentence as the word burger. Not one to miss out on the opportunity I made a lunch reservation for the next day and was not disappointed. ‘Twas glorious, especially the lightly fried onions that sat atop the patty. I also ensured I paid a visit to both Chumley’s, to taste their a delectable classic and Emily’s, for a burger covered in mounds of tasty sauce. I’d go back to any of them all without batting an eye. While I can’t say I found a favorite, I quite enjoyed the journey to finding one.
When it came to the best slice, I’d hit a number of the Manhattan based establishments, especially having lived a block from Joe’s, one of the best late night spots in all five boroughs. But I had yet to visit two of the restaurants that regularly place in the top five of any pizza list. Both located in Brooklyn, I could only convince friends to join me on one trip, as trying Roberta’s was also something they’d been dying to do. Serving more modern hipster pizza, like the White Guy (yuuuum) it was hard to compare it to the slices at Joe’s or John’s. But I’d certainly opt for frequent take out, if I lived within its delivery zone. Di Fara’s was an experience unto itself. Consisting of one elderly man making fresh and traditional pizza, I fear the establishment disappears when he does. His slice of cheese makes having to squeeze into one of only a few seats well worth it.
I became increasingly thankful for cold weather and the subsequent layers I wore because my food consumption had only just started. When hoping to eat your way through Manhattan, I definitely couldn’t forget the specialty restaurants, those establishments that sell a unique item unavailable anywhere else, especially the Midwest. While these destinations proved more drive-by than sit in, I desperately wanted to try whatever food item had made them famous. As luck would have it, many of these stops entailed dessert so I soon found myself indulging in sweets at least once a day. It started with the cronut, a Dominique Ansel Bakery special that has people lining up around the block for a taste. From there I found a shop serving interesting ice cream flavors in a churro cone, an establishment serving the most massive milkshakes I’d ever seen, coated in fruity pebbles, and a place offering fancy s’mores. The marshmallows, ranging in flavors from gingerbread to cookies and cream are roasted via blow torched in front of you and lovingly placed on a graham cracker and chocolate. For a main course, I indulged in the most fully condiment-ed hot dog, covered with onions, avocado, nacho cheese, bacon and so much more at Crif Dog. I also sought out multiple hot chocolate shops, including one with a marshmallow that, when placed in the beverage “bloomed” into a flower. The more of these places I researched and then visited the more I realized how truly special this city was. And, despite my farewell tour’s intended purpose, of helping prepare me to leave, every pound gained made my upcoming departure all the harder.
Of course food consumption proved only one element of my whirlwind five weeks. The magic of Manhattan extends well beyond the thousands of delicious restaurants. The city sits at the epicenter of culture in the United States, offering endless activities in which to participate. I’d done the standards. I’d walked the High Line. On a school field trip (I was a teacher), I visited Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty. During the holidays, I strolled 5th Avenue, taking in the lights and the Rockefeller tree. I’d wandered the halls of the new Whitney, the MoMa and the Met. But there awaited so much more for me to enjoy and experience.
Just like specialty restaurants, so too does NYC boast specialty museums that focus on a specific time period, location or art style. After two failed attempts, as I just couldn’t seem to remember it’s hours (its closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays), I finally found myself in the Neue Galerie, staring up at Gustav Klimt’s Adele Bloch-Bauer I, the gold shimmering under the museum’s lights. I spent hours weaving through the corridors of the Frick, enjoying the grandeur of the building itself as much, if not more so, than the artwork it housed. I could have stayed in the courtyard reading a book for the remainder of the evening if I hadn’t been shuffled out at closing time. A friend of mine had worked there for years and I regret only venturing to visit in my final weeks. I ventured to the decks of the Intrepid, laying eyes on the space shuttle and all of the military planes. I finally took advantage of the free Chelsea art galleries, having shelled out a pretty penny to explore the above mentioned museums. I waited in line for over an hour to enjoy Yayoi Kusama’s room of infinite mirrors and attended an opening at James Cohan. I also returned to the Met one last time, to take in a few of my favorite wings (Egyptian, Islamic and European) and check out the Michelangelo display, one of the many short term exhibits the Met offers. I left wishing I’d more frequently checked what exhibits were up and running at various times. Over the span of just a few weeks, I happily absorbed as much of the city’s art culture as I could manage, recognizing that a handful of museums would go unvisited. An excuse to come back, right?
With gobs of free time, for the first time since moving to the city six years previously, I took advantage of the classes and courses offered throughout the city. Eataly, a destination famous for its fabulous grocery store and restaurant, also provides cooking classes and I signed up for a gnocchi making course. I not only left having made two types myself, but I also learned about the history of the dish and ate two courses of gnocchi prepared by Eataly’s own renowned chef. He’d literally arrived from Italy only months earlier. What’s great about the city is that if one attempt fails, there are hundreds of other routes to take. So, realizing I was definitely not meant to be a cook, I figured I’d try my hand at another skill. Watercoloring, through Brooklyn Brainery, fit into my weekly schedule so I headed out to a part of Brooklyn I’d never been. At a table with ten strangers, I learned different techniques and made a few fun postcards. Despite also failing miserably at painting, I enjoyed trying something new and meeting interesting people.
Finally, my unemployed wallet barely able to manage, I knew I couldn’t leave without checking off some of those classic New York City experiences. Having already walked over two of the three main downtown bridges, I tackled the Williamsburg as well. Looking out over the skyline, I could see the Freedom Tower, the Brooklyn Bridge off to my left and the Manhattan to my right. The iron beams lining the pedestrian walkway, painted pink, created beautiful shadow patterns on the path. I sat in the Palm Court, indulging in afternoon tea at the Plaza, feeling just like Eloise. I took a tour of the Central Park Zoo, given by my close friend and zoo educator. Visiting at the right time (11:30, 1:30, 3:30), I even caught the sea lion feeding, watching them leap out of and twirl under the water. I took a final wintry stroll through Central Park, passing the reservoir up in the 80s and crossing the Bow Bridge, its white coloring highlighted by the snow gathering on the ground nearby. I took my final subway ride, appreciating the extensive public transportation that doubtfully exists anywhere else, actually tearing up knowing it was my last trip underground. Just as it was time to leave, it felt like I’d finally, and officially, become a crazy New Yorker, unabashedly showing my emotions in public.
Broadway, unintentionally, became the bookend of my entire tour. On my way to see Waitress in early November, I first realized my time in the city was winding down. Finally understanding I had to leave, I enjoyed the performance, starring Jason Mraz, with a bit of added emotion and on my post-play walk, perhaps appreciating Time Square for the first time, I decided to launch this entire farewell tour. My time in the city thus fittingly ended with my return to the theater district to watch perhaps one of the most beloved plays of all time, and one I had yet to see: Phantom of the Opera. Using TodayTix, an app that offers discounted tickets to many of the shows, I settled in to enjoy the part of the city that has perhaps made it the most famous.
A few days later, my apartment packed and keys sitting on the counter, it felt bit like the end of the tv show Friends. Taking one final look, I grabbed my two suitcases, the same number I’d brought with me seven years earlier, and headed to my uber. En route to LaGuardia I looked back over my time in the city. I thought about how on a day-to-day basis people, myself included, get so caught up in their lives that NYC’s full potential is so often untapped. I felt so very thankful for my final five weeks. While it took a conscious effort and a commitment to somewhat ignoring my budget, I got to spend my remaining time fully enjoying all that the city and its surrounding had to offer.
Maybe you too are considering leaving this amazing city and are looking for the best way to end your stay. Or perhaps you’re visiting for a few days, a week, or longer and need advice on what to do. Either way, I found my farewell tour gave me a final taste of all that makes the city great. For a complete list of restaurants, museums and activities, check out the below list, with links to all of the destinations’ home pages.
Breakfast/Brunch
Sadelle’s: I’d recommend the house salmon with an everything bagel. Russ & Daughters: Again, you must try the bagel and lox. Clinton Street Bakery: The pancakes are exceptional. Buvette: Excellent any time of day, serving small plates ideal for sharing. Egg Shop: Anything with eggs! ABC Cocina : Part of Jean-Georges’ empire. You can’t go wrong with any of them ( ABC Kitchen, abcV, and ABC Vegetarian), although ABC Kitchen requires reservations far in advance.
Lunch/Dinner
Il Buco: Tasty Italian that feels on the lighter side. Carbone: A New York Italian food institution. Decoy: Duck, duck, and more duck. Their known for their Peking. Reserve in advance! Parm: Eggplant or chicken parm, anyone? Yes please! Balthazar: A quintessential French restaurant. Great brunch pastries too! Bar Primi: Another Italian food gem. Thursday Kitchen: They don’t take reservations but you can sip on an adult capri sun while you wait. Jing Fong: If you’re looking for traditional dim sum, here’s your spot. Mission Chinese: Hip and certainly spicy food on the outskirts of Chinatown. Veselka: Open 24 hours a day and a staple of the East Village. Crif Dog: A must visit for the hot dog and tater tot lover. Sushi Nakazawa: Splurge on traditional Omakase. Come hungry because you get a lot! Di Fara : Try this slice, hand made by the man who first opened the restaurant back in 1964. Roberta’s : Arrive early because this spot fills up fast. The White Guy Pizza remains one of my favorite in the city. Estela: A restaurant that does the new-American cuisine exceptionally well. Bar Sardine: Part of the Happy Cooking restaurants (Fedora, Perla, Jeffrey’s Grocery, Joseph Leonards) which are all delectable. Get the burger! Union Square Cafe: No longer right on the park, it remains a New York institution. 11 Madison: One of, if not the most expensive restaurant in the city. Arrive at 5 and sit at the bar. You can get some food for far cheaper. Uncle Boon’s : Outstanding Thai food. Expect to wait for a table. Awash: Outstanding Ethiopia. Be prepared to share! Chumley’s: A tasty burger but truly can’t go wrong with any order. Especially fun if you visit around the holidays. Jacob’s Pickles: Come hungry because this southern food establishment has massive portions. The chicken sandwiches are incredible. Ssäm: Part of the Momofuku group. Get the pork buns (even though they aren’t on the menu). Go on the early side in order to snag a seat (Momofuku Noodle Bar, Milk, and Ko are also to die for). Nom Wah: For more of a fast food feel visit the NoLita location. The Chinatown restaurant is the more famous spot, open since 1920. Guan Fu Szechuan: A great place for trying the mouth-numbing Szechuan pepper. It’s out in Flushing which, while far, is known for its Chinese food offerings. Emily’s: With pizza in the title, you’d be silly not to order a slice. But the burger is also a must-try. Cafe Gitane: French-Moroccan cafe. Rolf’s: Recommended for the decorations not the food. A must-visit around the holidays.
Dessert
Chick-a-licious: Grab a churro cone! New Territories: Bringing some on Hong Kong to the States, they offer a bubble waffle cone and amazingly intricate milkshakes. Squish: Don’t forget to grab a gourmet s’more! Dominique Ansel: A three-for-one if you try the cronut (not my favorite but an experience for sure), blooming hot chocolate, and a mouth watering chocolate chip cookie. William Greenberg Desserts: The peanut butter cake pop is incredible. LeVain Bakery: Quite possibly the best cookie I will ever eat. I’d recommend the dark chocolate peanut butter. It’s the size of a small cake! Black Tap: Another destination for milkshake lovers. These are not only massive but incredibly creative. You can start off with a burger too. Insomnia Cookies: Serving a fun variety of cookies in multiple locations. They’re open late, hence the name!
Drinks
Bemelman’s Bar: A place to experience Old New York named after the creator of the Madeline books (be sure to note the intricate wallpaper). Bar Sixty-Five: This is as close as you can get to the Rainbow Room (now only open for private events). Have a drink, or two, with a view!
Museums
Neue Galerie: German and Austrian art. Guggenheim Museum: Worth it if for no other reason than for the building’s architecture. Brooklyn Museum: Don’t forget about the art offerings in the other boroughs! Federal Hall, Trinity Church and St. Paul’s Chapel: A fun way to explore the history of the Financial District. New York Historical Society: Learn all about different aspects of the city. Cooper Hewitt Museum: A Smithsonian museum all about design. The Met: Block off an entire day or split across multiple in order to see it all! Intrepid Museum: Check out the space shuttle and wander through the floors of this aircraft carrier turned museum. The Frick: An old mansion turned museum, the building itself proves just as spectacular as the art collection.
Activities
Tea at the Plaza: Prepare to shell out a pretty penny for the experience. Much better if you have a friend or two who can join. Central Park Zoo: Check out the sea lion feedings (11:30, 1:30 and 3:30). FDR Four Freedoms Park: Take the tram across the East River to explore the newest NYC park. Provides a great view of Manhattan. Socrates Sculpture Park: A bit further afield but a great picnic spot on a nice day. Marie’s Crisis: If you love show tunes and sing alongs, this is the spot for you. Space is tight so prepare to wait in line. Events at MSG: Grab tickets to the Rangers or Knicks. If neither are playing, perhaps a concert is in order. You can’t miss visiting the world’s most famous arena. Chelsea art galleries: They are FREE! Spend an afternoon wandering in and out of the various galleries in the neighborhood. It’s a perfect opportunity to check out the High Line too! Walk the bridges: The Brooklyn Bridge is a must but don’t stop there. If you’re looking to be active, stroll them all. Each offers a slightly different view of the city. Top of the Rock: If you’re looking for a spectacular view, this is your spot. While you can go up the Empire State Building, the Top of the Rock actually gives you a view of the iconic building. Eataly: Whether for shopping, a meal or a class, Eataly needs to be on everyone’s list. Visiting will also provide you with a glimpse of the Flatiron Building. Brooklyn Brainery: Take a course or a just a one-off class, depending on how long you’re in town.
