Glass covered the entire front wall, allowing those outside a window into the experience. Bright lights hung above each table, refracting off the glassware and cutlery carefully placed before each patron. Wood beams painted white ran across the ceiling and vegetation grew from cavernous pots. Pulling open the transparent door, entering this world, I couldn’t quite believe that we, after a sweaty day of exploring Medellín were about to partake in something so sleek, so classic, so thoughtfully curated.
Our table for eight stood in the back corner, away from the street and close to the kitchen. Wine glasses, the first being complimentary, were quickly filled with our choice of red, white or sparkling. Introductions- to the space and our waiter- were made and then, never offered a menu, the first dish found its way onto our table: a plate of small white circular tablets. Looking like medicine, I struggled to identify what we were about to ingest when the server poured water onto each. Quickly they expanded before our eyes, transforming into towels for freshening up. I hadn’t even eaten a bite of the upcoming nine courses, and already I was hooked.
Owned and operated by Chef Juan Manuel Barrientos, known to many as Juanma, El Cielo is a restaurant that offers visitors a true gastronomical experience. It’s flagship location in Medellín first opened its doors in 2006, having expanded to now include Miami, Bogota and in the coming weeks Washington DC. Through its 9, 11 or 13 courses, El Cielo transform meals into moments- memorable encounters for each of the five senses. Every bite, and dinner in its entirety were, as I was soon to learn, not only going to dazzle the taste buds but also expand my knowledge of Colombia’s history and leave a positive impact on the world.
The Edible Dishes
Now clean, and freshly scented, we dug in. First came the appetizers: a mouthful of curried pork and a potato nest, in which the vegetable was cooked three ways. Both sat atop a wooden bowl filled with corn kernels whose burnt yellow coloring perfectly accentuated the two dishes themselves. I nibbled at each in an attempt to prolong the flavor of that which was portioned to be consumed in one or two bites.
Next came the buñuelo, what I soon understood to be a traditional Colombian fritter, often made with cheese. Served in a small bowl, the round snacks had eucalyptus leaves sticking into the air, which someone subsequently lit. Their scent wafted into the air and our noses, providing an amuse bouche for the nostrils. Popping the buñuelo into my mouth I tasted, to my delight, liquid sweet corn instead of the standard queso.
This proved just one moment in which I learned about and of Colombia’s edible history and the way in which Juanma’s dishes offered a modern take on traditional cuisine. I would taste native fruits, local snacks and substantial proteins all from and embodying the country. A Medellín native, the chef prides himself on his restaurant’s focus on all things Colombian, from produce, organic and locally grown, to ambiance. Its decor strives to embodies the paisa farms of Colombia through its use of leather, wood and vegetation. The three elements combine, in a manner unique to each establishment, to create a rustic, yet unquestionably classy Colombian vibe.
The Experiential Moments
With appetizers cleared, large empty bowls were then placed before each of us, with space for a soup or stew far larger than any we could possibly consume; unable to fathom a guess as to what awaited, our confusion only grew when the server told us to hold our hands out above the basins. Approaching me first, he proceeded to pour liquid chocolate onto my waiting palms, its warmth radiating through my entire body. The server then sprinkled finely ground coffee onto my coated skin with instructions to rub my hands together. Every turn and each twist exfoliated my hands and we all paused periodically to lick the substance from our younger feeling skin. After minutes of massaging and eating, any remaining liquid was washed off with warm water poured from a pitcher. Never had I anticipated such an experience at a restaurant, and it was just one of many non-edible moments designed to break up the courses and satisfy our other senses
As the entrees made their way onto our table – salmon drizzled with a curuba fruit sauce, pork ribs with suero bread (Colombian sour cream lightly fried), and chicken on carrot pure and yucca crisps– we peppered our guide, Oscar, with questions. Having spent the day hearing about the violence and fear of the 1980s and early 90s from a local, we sought to understand even more about this city and the country at large. How much money did Escobar really have? How did the city respond following his death? When did the FARC really come into power? How did they gain such a foothold in Colombia? What happens now?
The Enduring Mission
At this, Oscar flagged down a waiter to ask if a specific chef was working tonight, hoping we could hear about his experiences growing up in Colombia. Learning he was off, Oscar took his place, regaling us with his story, at least the basic details. The man had been a member of the National Army fighting in the southern mountains of Colombia. He was injured during combat with the FARC and lost part of his leg. Through a scholarship funded by Juanma, he gained culinary training and now, here in Medellín worked in a kitchen alongside former guerillas.
Adversaries now co-workers, the idea amazed me and was tangible evidence of Juanma’s efforts to bring former enemies together in hopes of reconciliation and into a new community centered on food. This anecdote, albeit small, gave me more context, adding another layer to my understanding of not only the country’s recent and tragic history but also about how Colombia, and El Cielo, is working to move forward.
It was this that truly made me fall in love with the restaurant; because beyond the creation of these gastronomical moments – edible or experiential – the restaurant strives to be a part of and actively engage in continued positive change happening within Colombia. Juanma’s El Cielo Foundation, the one that sent said chef to Barcelona for schooling, works to help “cook the peace” in his native country in more ways than one. In addition to training members from both sides of the conflict, wives of soldiers kidnapped, peasants and displaced indigenous peoples also receive skill-based education so that they can find work within the restaurant world. What’s more, El Cielo donates 30% of its annual profits to the support these and other socially responsible projects.
The Extraordinary Effect
As the desserts made their way onto our table, a warmness settled in my stomach, from both El Cielo’s food and its mission. With each, just as had happened with every course prior, the server explained what we were tasting and why. Kaffir lime sorbet followed by ice cream made from guanabana, a popular Colombian fruit. A licorice meringue in liquid nitrogen stood as a moment unto itself, going well beyond a sole purpose of consumption. Each left the taster with a memory that not only dazzled the taste but expanded the mind.
With El Cielo set to open in Washington DC’s La Cosecha, patrons can expect nothing but magic. Aptly named, its food and its larger purpose are just that, heavenly. You’re bound to leave, as I did, with your stomach and soul on cloud nine.
If you find yourself enjoying El Cielo while in Colombia, be it in Medellín or Bogota, be sure to also spend some time in Cartagena.
