When planning my Indonesian adventure, I knew I wanted to see the Komodo Dragons. But I found myself facing an exceptionally tight schedule. I only had three days to get myself to Flores and then out to Komodo National Park. But, headed to that part of the world, I just couldn’t pass up the opportunity. So, I started researching options. I found a handful of companies offering multi-day trips to see the reptiles and, as an added bonus, the opportunity to swim with manta rays. I’d never considered a liveaboard experience and actually knew very little about them (having only done one in Halong Bay). But with exceptional reviews, a trip with Flores XP seemed a no-brainer and within days, it was booked.
Little did I know my two days on board Salacia II would take me to all of the must-see destinations immediately surrounding the town of Labuan Bajo, the sights that most 2-Day liveaboards hit during their excursion. Some of the islands we were set to visit I’d stumbled upon during my research. Looking at the itinerary, names like Kanawa sounded familiar. But, and for this reason alone I can’t recommend liveaboards enough, the adventure would bring me to places and allow me experiences I otherwise would have missed. To islands that to this day remain some of my most favorite sites visited.
Upon arrival, I began wondering if, as a solo traveler, I’d made a serious mistake, setting off onto a boat with total strangers. Would I spend the next 48 hours in some type of nightmare? Perhaps we’d be lost at sea, I’d get motion sick, or simply sit in some corner of the boat totally alone. I couldn’t decide which would be worse but the disastrous possibilities felt endless. Thankfully, the van pulled in to my hotel right on time, forcing my imagination to pause momentarily. Sliding the door open, I hopped on, ducking my head and climbing over bags towards the back. The warm greetings offered by each as I squeezed past loosened the growing knot in my stomach. And, if that weren’t comfort enough, I’d soon learn the activities and entire liveaboard experience was likely the perfect option for a solo traveler.
My first day flew by, filled with white sand beaches and expansive coral gardens. As do most liveaboards, for our first excursion, we pulled up alongside the dock at Kanawa Island. I couldn’t help notice the water. Looking down, I saw everything below the surface, from sea urchins to tiny fish swimming past. I’d never seen anything so blue and crystalline. I felt refreshed simply looking at it and I couldn’t wait to submerge myself within, to have my first experience in the Indonesian sea.
Mask and snorkel fastened tightly, I dove in. I passed neon colored starfish and schools of fish darting in every direction. The occasional box fish ambled by, along with the ever present parrot fish, whose coral consumption created a constant crunching underwater. Bobbing with the occasional wave, I stayed in for as long as possible, until goosebumps eventually covered by body. Despite the length of my swim, we still had time to stretch out on the beach. Laying my sarong (a must-pack item) across the hot sand, I absorbed the sun’s warmth. Totally relaxed, my eyes fell closed, taking in a quick nap and reveling in the perfect combination of activeness and lounging.
Following a meal of chicken wings, rice, watermelon and a somewhat unidentifiable yet delicious cubed dish (it’s amazing what they whip up on these liveaboards. You certainly won’t go hungry), we spent the next few hours lounging on deck, enjoying the scenery en route to the reefs of Sebayur Kecil. Reading my book I’d glance up in time to catch an island or, more aptly, a mountain rising from the sea. Its greenish brown coloring highlighting the vibrancy of the water surrounding it. Once at Kecil, we found ourselves completely alone. Whereas Kanawa had handfuls of other tourists, here there were none. It would appear Flores XP had found a spot less frequented by other companies, offering us what felt like a more private and unique experience. We spent the next hour alternating between submerging ourselves below the sea’s surface, searching for marine life, and leaping off the top deck, likely scaring any animals away. As luck would have it, despite our escapades, we encountered stingrays gliding below and two moray eels peeking out of the coral.
With the sun falling lower in the sky, we approached Sebayur Island, our home for the evening. As we pulled closer, I spotted, tucked in a corner of an otherwise abandoned island, our accommodation. Now, most liveaboards, as the name entails, have you actually live on the boat itself. The longer Flores XP trips do this. However, the company is unique in that it has accommodations on land as well (consider how long you want to live on a boat and/or if you do at all). The handful of bungalows felt almost like tree houses and I like a member of the Swiss Family Robinson, arriving home to my deserted island.
Given my own room, I reveled in a cold fresh water shower and spent the rest of my time down by the water, watching the sky transform with the setting sun and enjoying the cool breeze off the water. We enjoyed a dinner of BBQ fish, once again awed by what chef Max prepared, and a bonfire on the beach. Reclined on a bean bag chair, staring at the thousands of stars above, my first day ended with the sound of the crackling fire and waves crashing along the shore.
There was no better way to start day two than waking up with the sun, looking out of my bungalow over the sea. Breakfast at 6:30 meant we had an entire day ahead of us, and soon enough we found ourselves back on board and headed to Manta Point, one of the must-visit and most popular locations on any liveaboard. Our sense of isolation quickly faded as we approached. At least twenty other boats motored back and forth across the water hoping to find the somewhat elusive rays. We joined the crowd, everyone standing on the lookout, searching for any sign of the creatures below the surface. Unfortunately, it was not the day and we eventually departed Manta Point without any encounters (check out the “When To Go” section below to increase the likelihood you find them). While of course feeling somewhat defeated, it served as a wonderful reminder that wildlife is anything but reliable.
Any disappointment soon evaporated, however, with our arrival at Siaba Island. While I’d heard of Kanawa and the Komodo island to which we headed next, this tiny speck in the Flores Sea never crossed my radar. And I certainly would never have found it without this liveaboard. Unable to drop anchor due to the sea-life, we slid into the water and into a whole new world. Coral of all shapes and sizes covered the seabed, like a forest rising from below. Clownfish peered out of their sea anemones only to scurry back as I approached. In water so shallow I felt as though I’d scrape my stomach, I navigated amongst the blooms, at times finding myself surrounded by hundreds of fish, shimmering in the sunlight. While finding no larger marine creatures, it hardly mattered.
A meal of fried noodles in the sunshine refueled us for an afternoon of continued adventure. It was time for Rinca Island and the dragons, the excursion for which I’d initially signed up. Welcomed by a huge sign flanked with komodo statues, we wandered along a path leading toward the Ranger Station. Before even entering the park our animal scavenger hunt began, catching glimpses of a deer-like creature and numerous monkeys going about their day. Exposed to the sweltering afternoon sun, the rangers greeted us. Realizing the long sticks they carried served to defend us against a dragon attack, we proceeded carefully and somewhat reluctantly. And then, rounding a corner we found ourselves face to face with Komodos. Lounging in the shade, the supposedly fierce dragons seemed unfazed by our presence. Clearly pregnant (we arrived during mating season after all), the females couldn’t be bothered or less worried about our approach.
Reminded of their aggressive nature despite their current appearance, we kept our distance, watching and waiting. A juvenile (still at least 4 feet in length) eventually emerged from below a nearby building, providing us our first opportunity to see one in motion. With the gait of a lizard but the tongue of a snake, it moved with surprising speed despite its size. The sight inspired a true sense of awe, especially considering this was only a baby! Hoping to find more, including the dominant males (who reach up to 9 feet in length), we ventured into the woods, winding through foliage and over dried streams. Clearly busy with other activities, the dragons were nowhere to be seen. They’d even vanished from their earlier location, perhaps in search of a cool or quiet place. But nevertheless, we’d seen them.
I couldn’t help but feel down upon climbing back onboard Salacia II. Not only was my time with the dragons over, my time with the group was nearing its end as well. We had just one stop remaining: Kalong Island. I’d heard of it and knew I’d see bats. But I couldn’t have imagined what lay waiting. We sidled up next to a handful of other boats just as the sun was setting. Starting with a yellowish tint, the sky slowly turned orange and then pink, its coloring appearing even more bright compared to the darkening island sitting just in front of us. As the sun dropped lower and lower below the horizon, the sky settled into dusk. Finally, as it became just dark enough, we caught sight of the first few bats. Lifting off from the trees of Kalong Island, they flew overhead, en route to Flores for the evening. What started as a handful soon morphed into thousands. For minutes on end the creatures emerged, a steady and never ending stream of black traveling above. The bats just kept coming and coming, our boat pulling away before the last had passed.
Back on land and in civilization, I set off, along with my two new friends, for a dinner in the market. Having started alone and nervous just two days earlier, I now found myself perfectly content, reliving every moment of the excursion with Kate and Declan.
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As did I, many people flock to the island of Flores to see the Komodo Dragons. Their size and rarity likely make them the biggest reason tourists visit the town of Labuan Bajo. Living on two nearby islands, Rinca and Komodo, tours to find these reptiles can certainly be accomplished in a day, especially if you splurge for a speedboat. However, as I learned, the surrounding area offers so much more to see than just the dragons themselves. Stunning islands, expansive coral reefs, white sand beaches, and so much more sit just beyond.
Whether it be with Flores XP or another operator, a liveaboard really is your best bet, especially as a solo traveler. My only regret? My liveaboard wasn’t longer. So block off at least three to four days. You’ll thank me later.
Where You’ll Go:
- Two-Day liveaboards: Due to their short duration, these stay closer to Labuan Bajo. Most will hit Kanawa and Kalong Islands, along with Manta Point and either Rinca or Komodo. You will of course have the chance to snorkel but different companies might venture to different spots.
- Three-Day liveaboards: These will visit all the sights of a 2-Day with a few extra. Some will visit both dragon islands, doubling your chance of seeing the reptiles. A few venture out to Padar but most companies require a longer stay on board.
- Four to Five-Day Liveaboards: If I could do it all over again, I’d do this! You truly get to see everything you’d want: Pink Beach, Kanawa, Kalong, Padar, Komodo, and Rinca Islands, and numerous other smaller destinations.
When To Go:
- December – March: The rainy season and many liveaboards, including FloresXP don’t fully operate.
- April – June: Prime time to see the Komodos. May, in particular, offers a great opportunity to also see the manta rays.
- July – August: Peak tourist season. You’ll see boats everywhere. It is also harder to see the dragons (it’s mating season) and the manta rays (they’ve migrated elsewhere by this point).
- September – November: Flores XPs favorite time of year. You can see mantas, Komodos and even whales!
Keep In Mind:
- There are MANY liveaboard companies offering tours of Komodo National Park. Be sure to do your research before deciding on one. Use websites like liveaboard.com or Tripadvisor.
- If you are a certified scuba diver, even better! There are some excellent dive spots around Flores and a liveaboard will help you take full advantage of those.
