As a US History major, I learned about Cuba in various courses. I read about Fidel Castro and the Revolution. I watched documentaries on the Cuban Missile Crisis. I heard about Wet-Foot/Dry-Foot, seeing images of people fleeing in rafts that amounted to tiny inner tubes. The picture painted of Cuba was one of poor decisions and poor treatment. Zero infrastructure and zero prosperity. Nothing had changed and nothing ever would.
But, having now spent ten days on the island, this idea of historic un-change actually makes for a fascinating place to explore. Arriving in the country is like traveling back in time, to a place whose history is still very much alive. It’s hard in this day and age to find a place untouched by American influence, a place without a McDonalds or Starbucks. Cuba has isolated itself from all of that, and in doing so permitted its culture to grow into something quintessentially and purely Cuban. And, as the capital, Havana sits at the epicenter of this vibrant and thriving environment.
I knew very little about the actual city of Havana before setting foot in the country. Our checkered past made me nervous heading through customs. But as soon as I boarded the bus and set off, I fell in love. In three days, I saw as much of the city as possible, soaking in every sight. And while there are certainly endless reasons to blatantly ignore Trump’s travel restrictions, here are just a few that make Havana a must-visit spot.
The Cars
Yes, you’ve seen the photographs. You likely already know you can hitch a ride in them. But you absolutely must visit NostalgiCar, the best car renovation garage in the city. Walking in you will soon meet the owner, the sweetest and most passionate man there is. As the first cuban entrepreneur to speak at the White House, he’s full of stories he’ll willingly share. You can also see Nadine, a blue Chevy Bel Air and the first car he ever restored. Happy to answer any question you might have, you are certain to learn about the entire restoration process and perhaps ride home in one of his cars. If you can’t hire one from NostalgiCar, fear not. Your hotel can assist you in booking one of Cuba’s many old cars. Don’t miss your chance to drive from place to place in style!
The Cigars
Buying them is one thing. Watching them get made is something entirely different. While there are a handful in the city, I recommend heading to Partagas Cigar Factory for a tour of the facility (get tickets ahead of time). Consisting of multiple floors, each level houses a different step in the process. Women flatten the different tobacco leaves, pulling out the central stem by continually wrapping it around their wrists. Rollers combine the three different parts of the leaf (in different quantities depending on the flavor/brand) to make the actual cigar. They grab various leaf parts so quickly, pulling, discarding, wrapping and combining all while turning it into the desired shape. Wrappers then encase the rolled cigar in a silky leaf paper to be sorted into groups of 10, matching their external coloring as closely as possible. Last but not least, individuals put labels on each cigar & on the boxes. With a worker playing guitar up front, it was a lively experience, one that every Havana visitor should have. It gives you a far greater appreciation for the ever-famous Cuban cigars. But don’t forget, these facilities are government controlled so photographs are prohibited.
The Dance
You can’t come to Cuba and not witness its famous cabaret. As arguably the most historic and famous, visitors flock to The Tropicana for its nightly show. Opened in 1939, as a casino and cabaret, the performance takes place outdoors, with its “Flesh Goddesses” standing front and center. Sequins, feathers, bright colors and theatrical dancing keep guests on the edge of their seats. It’s like the Chiquita Banana woman, ten-fold. The Hotel Nacional also offers a highly spectacular show, the Cabaret Parisien.
If you’re in the market for less glitzy or perhaps a more reasonable showtime (many of the cabaret run far into the night), Havana offers a plethora of other performances, many that highlight the country’s various cultural influences. Shaped by both Afro-Cuban beats and Spanish movements, Habana Compas Dance puts on quite a show. Using bongos, castanets and even artistically painted wooden chairs for percussion, the troop exposes its viewers to the history of Cuban dance. Even the walls, beautifully decorated, prove informative and captivating.
The Ice Cream
Coppelia is a Havana institution. Taking up an entire city block, you’ll often find lines around its entirety. Not only does it serves some of the best ice cream I’ve had, but the building itself also draws a crowd. Built in the 1960s during the Revolution, Fidel wanted to share his love of dairy with the people of Cuba. Still sate-run today, the shop accepts both Cuban Pesos (the national currency) and Cuban Convertible Pesos (called CUCS). As tourists, you might get sent through a side entrance and unfortunately pay in CUCS, at a higher price. But if you wait in line, manage to blend in with the locals, or wind up paying with the national currency, you can get a scoop for nearly nothing. It’s a true Havana gem, just as, if not more popular with locals than visitors.
The Rum
It’s like a sixth food group in Havana. If your food isn’t soaked in it, you are likely drinking rum from a glass that a waiter, guide or local just handed you. I don’t think I went a day without being offered some rum-infused beverage, whether it be a daiquiri or the classic Mojito. In fact, one morning I arrived for a hacienda tour and found myself consuming rum at just 10am.
While you can certainly acquire the alcohol at almost any establishment, there’s only one place that claims the mojito as its own and that is La Bodeguita del Medio. Considered the birthplace of the cocktail, the bar opened in 1942 with the original name of Casa Martinez. Many famous patrons frequented La Bodeguita and you’ll see signatures covering the walls. Up for debate is whether the inscription signed by Ernest Hemingway is, in fact, from him. It’s a tight space so prepare to wait in line.
The Modernism
When you think of Cuba, modernism doesn’t likely come to mind. However, there’s an entire neighborhood know as Fusterlandia that reflects the influences of both Gaudí’and Picasso. A few decades back, a gentleman by the name of Jose Fuster started what some might call a “creative enclave” in the Jaimanitas neighborhood, just outside of Havana. Covering his entire home with mosaic tiles and sculptures of all colors and sizes, the trend continued to spread, with neighbors adding pops of color here and there. Eventually street signs, entire walls and other homes found themselves equally coated. The end result is an entire neighborhood of vibrantly modern artwork. You can’t help but feel happy wandering the streets or exploring Fuster’s home, now workshop. No wonder he named the project the “Joy of Living.”
The History
Whether you’re a fan of Fidel or not, learning about the revolution from the Cuban perspective proves a worthwhile endeavor. You can visit the Plaza de la Revolución, the site of nearly all of the important social or political gatherings during Fidel’s tenure. Front and center is a statue of Jose Martí, the father of Cuba. But on the surrounding government buildings, you’ll find the images of both Camilo Cienfuegos and Che Guevara. Standing in the vast open space you can almost imagine Castro’s words reverberating as a million Cubans stood in rapture.
The Revolution Museum, quite purposefully housed in the former presidential palace, provides history buffs with more than enough information about not only the Revolution but events leading up to and following that time period. Filled with photographs and memorabilia, visitors journey through Cuba’s history, gaining a far deeper understanding of what led to the rise of Fidel.
The Plazas
Two minutes in Old Havana and you’ll never want to leave. I swear. Ambling through the four main plazas you’ll get a wonderful snapshot of Cuban culture. From the governor’s home on Plaza de Armas to San Cristobal Cathedral in Plaza de la Catedral to the monastery on Plaza de San Francisco, visitors can explore numerous historical sights, learning about the role of the army and the church in the evolution of Havana.
You’ll also encounter some big personalities. Cuban women, dressed in traditional garb, always of the brightest color, sell various items and offer to pose in photographs. Men on stilts meander by while others sell roasted peanuts. These vibrant characters stand out amongst the older buildings, dating back to Havana’s founding.
In Plaza Vieja, the most popular square amongst locals, children participate in physical education classes right on the street. I had to quite quickly hop out of the way of a relay taking place just behind me. Cafes sit along the edge, filled with people ordering coffee, for which the city is famous. Grab a seat at Cafe el Escorial and watch Cuban life unfold in front of you. Ration shops are spread throughout, still providing locals with food staples, like rice.Wandering the narrow streets, you’ll also likely pass pharmacies that feel more like apothecaries than your local CVS. If you’re looking for energy, for culture or a place to spend hours taking photographs, Old Havana’s your spot.
Unlike any other place on earth, Cuba is a country for which it is worth breaking the rules and every visit should start with Havana. The city provides the perfect introduction to what Cuba’s all about- its culture, its history and its people. Whether you’ve got a long weekend or a month to explore, it will never be long enough. There’s just so much to the city and to the country you’ll find yourself booking a second trip before you’ve even finished the first.
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